SEA RUN BROWN: Argentina - Tierra del Fuego

Estancia Despedida Lodge on the Rio Grande offers a substantially better price point than all other Tierra del Fuego fishing lodges and it fishes some of the best pools on the river.  Its 5-star reputation is based not on luxurious accommodations, but on its number one focus, the fishing.  Of all the Tierra del Fuego fishing lodges, Estancia Despedida Lodge is the number 1 choice for the diehard, dedicated Sea Run Brown Trout angler.

Despedida Lodge is located within the Estancia Despedida, across the Rio Grande from Estancia Maria Behety and between the Menendez Ranch and the exclusive Kau Tapen Lodge.  It is positioned at the half way point on the Rio Grande and downstream of Kau Tapen.  Despedida and Maria Behety guests share pools but alternate each day to ensure exclusivity.

Despedida Lodge was built in 1999 from logs imported from Montana.  It is well appointed and tastefully decorated with nothing overstated or overlooked.  It can accommodate a maximum of 6 anglers in double bedrooms with twin beds and private baths.  The log structure offers spacious living and dinning rooms with large windows and panoramic views.  Estancia Despedida Lodge has a full staff including a professional chef who prepares delicious Argentine dishes and desserts paired with Mendoza wines.   The chef will also prepare made-to-order breakfasts.

Compared to other Tierra del Fuego fishing lodges, Despedida has a more intimate and family atmosphere.  The managing outfitter Danny Lajous, his wife Helen and their son Tomas take a personal interest in your satisfaction and comfort and make our guests feel like a member of a tightly knit group of anglers rather than just a visitor.  Danny, Helen and their right-hand man, Ozzie, have been there for over 15 years and understand the unique conditions of the Rio Grande and Sea Run Brown Trout fishing.  Their well seasoned guides play a major role in contributing to the high percentage of repeat Sea Run Brown addicts.

Fishing at Despedida Lodge
The farthest pool on the Rio Grande that Despedida fishes is 15 minutes by truck from the lodge.  With minimal drive times, anglers are on the water shortly after a 7:30 am breakfast and return to the lodge for lunch and siesta before the evening session that runs from 5:30 and till 10:30-11:00 pm.  With dinner ending after midnight, everyone takes advantage of the mid day siesta.  The fishing schedule is practically from sun up till sundown and anglers should be physically and mentally prepared for long hours on the river.

The Argentina fishing guides at Despedida were born in Rio Grande, Argentina and have fished the rivers of Tierra del Fuego all their lives.  Gabriel Oyarzun, Tommy Lajous, Miguel Zangla, Marcelo Aranda and Luis Olivier are all bilingual and are proficient at teaching both single and double handed casting techniques.

Danny’s son Tomas is the most experienced, exuberant and upbeat. Besides the fish he put us on, rockin out to I Got a Woman, by Ray Charles in his truck was one of the highlights of our stay in April, 2011.  The river could be brown and the skies could open up and that kid is still going to put you in a great mood and onto fish.

Peak fishing time on the Rio Grande is somewhere around February and March, but true peak times vary from year to year and are dictated by natural conditions.  The shoulder months can be just as good.  January probably holds the freshest fish of the season due to higher tides and more water meaning a faster trip up river.  The fish during this time are less spent and the most powerful.  April can also be superb and we think Despedida Lodge manager, Danny Lajous summed it up pretty well when he said,
“April, I can tell you that it’s the month where I have seen the most incredible fishing of my life!  Very big fish, really!!”

It’s also important to note that the winds are significantly diminished in April

The average size Sea Run Brown Trout at Despedida Lodge is about 11lbs with a 36 lb record landed in 2008.  Usually a group of good fisherman will each produce around 6 fish a day, with at least a 20 pounder under everyone’s belt by the end of the week.  Or course, there are epic days that make averages irrelevant such as the angler who caught 33 fish in one evening in the pool now named, 33.

Down river from the boca of the Menendez,  the other pools that Despedida fishes are: Boca of the Menendez, Condorito, Condor, Middle Pool, Corral, Tommy’s Pool, Peter’s Pool,. Gabrielito, Pedrero, Seagull’s pool (Gaviotero), Arturo, Gypsy (Gitano), The No Name Pool, The Green Bank (La barda verde), The Boca of the Ona, The Quiet Pool (El Quieto) and lastly, The Channel.  Some of these pools are perfect for skating big dry flies such as Bombers, Wulffs and Muddlers.

If you’ve wanted to fly fish the Rio Grande but have been deterred by the price, contact us for more information and available dates at Estancia Despedida.